Lundy - The Devils Slide
The Devils slide was first climbed in the early 1960's. The face has been claimed to be the tallest granite slab in Europe. Whilst untrue, it is never the less one of the tallest slab climbs in England and certainly a must climb classic. It makes for an exceptional climb at an amenable grade. This popular route was climbed, or perhaps more accurately "walked", feet only by Jonny Dawes in 2017. Although Lundy (meaning Puffin Island in Norse) has climbing restrictions some of the year, the devils slide and a number of other areas are exempt. The slide doesn't have nesting birds, likely because it's so exposed, bear that in mind when planning. To get to Lundy a ferry can be taken from Ilfracombe in Devon. The route climbs up the right-hand side of the slab following the groove. The last pitch takes an obvious traverse left under the headwall. Whilst originally 5 pitches of climbing, it can be done in as few as three with long ropes and careful runner placements. See references below for more info.
The Route Topography
This is the route The Devils Slide on Lundy in Lundy, England. It represents 117m of Granite rock climbing, usually over 5 pitches, of a max grade of HS 4a. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution The Devils Slide climb topo.
Original Image: Shadthecat
Approach & Descent Information
Approach: Getting to the Island is not straight forwards as the boats are not regular. Once there the sea cliff is a couple of hours walk from the harbour. From the top of the cliff descend down the southern gully. At least one short abseil is required to pass an outcrop. The Blocks at the bottom of the slide can be reached mid-tide and below. Care should be taken as Lundy and the Bristol channel in general has one of the largest tidal ranges in the world.
West Country Climbs - pg. 104
Whilst this is a great book in general, it's section on Lundy is of little value. It has no topos and little information on Lundy. So for climbing in the west country including many good multi-pitch routes, it is great, but for Lundy specifically it's of little value.
R.R.P. £ 24.99
Classic Rock - pg. 113
Ken Wilson's Classic Rock is one of the most popular and iconic works of climbing literature ever written. First published in 1978, Classic Rock represented the absolute best of British climbing at that time, and to this day highlights the best climbing in Great Britain, covering 80 routes up to the grade of Hard Severe or Mild Very severe. The book is more of a coffee table book than a guidebook in the traditional sense. It brings each route to life through a superb selection of photographs, anecdotes and essays from some of the most accomplished climbers of the day. This book covers the climb on the devils Slide in Lundy over 5 large pages covering more detail and inspiration for rock climbing than any guidebook.
R.R.P. £ 29.99
South West Climbs - pg. 160
South West climbs by Pat Littlejohn is a traditional guidebook. It has good route descriptions and information. The guide covers a great range of climbing areas in the south west of England and covers Lundy, and in particular the Devils Slide climb and its namesake cliff face well. The guidebook is, for the most part, printed in black and white and the photos and diagrams are not up to the standard of more recent guidebooks. However, it does a much better job of route descriptions than most modern guides. Overall not a bad investment, but it certainly feels its age.
R.R.P. £ 19.99
Weather & Local Conditions
Seasonal Weather Information
Note that some weather stations are close or even on the mountain, others are in nearby towns. Plan accordingly!
Estimated Rainy Days Per Month
The graph shows the estimated average number of rainy days in the month that had more than 1mm rainfall or snow:
Estimated Temperature Per Month
Estimated average high and low temperature in degrees Celsius for the given month.
References & additional links
The following links will take you to external websites specifically related to this climb: The Devils Slide on Lundy.
Note: They contained relevant information at the time of publishing.
Listed Nearby Climbs
The are some top quality multi-pitch rock climbs nearby. Guidebooks (see above) will have a more comprehensive list of other local climbing venues.
Wreakers Slab on Cornakey Cliff
130m climb graded VS 4b.
There are currently over 40 published multi-pitch climbs on the site.
View All Listed Rock Climbs