Location of Stetind in Norway

Stetind - Sydpillaren

Stetind is a huge granite pillar rising 1329 m out of Tysfjord. Voted Norways national Mountain it’s an iconic sight. The South Pilar route or Sydpillaren, offers some challenging climbing, especially towards the top with a couple of N6- graded pitches which roughly equate to HVS/E1. In total it’s a 14 pitch climb that is described as one of Norway’s finest climbs and it’s a classic alpine test piece. Getting down actually requires reversing the Original Route (graded n4), it will require ropework in sections.

Grade E1 5b
Length 575m
Pitches 13
Approach 90min
Granite
Abseil
Required

The Route Topography

This is the route Sydpillaren on Stetind in Nordland, Norway. It represents 575m of Granite rock climbing, usually over 13 pitches, of a max grade of E1 5b. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Sydpillaren climb topo.

Original Image: Seth Harry


Approach & Descent Information

Follow the good path from the parking area up the left side of the stream (initially marked with red paint). This leads through birch forest and eventually out into open country. Ascend through boulders following a discontinuous path - fill water bottles up here - to a level area on top of the moraine about a 100m above an iceberg filled lake. There is a big flat ‘gearing up’boulder at the saddle.

See Stetind on the climb map Open climb location in Google Maps


Guidebooks

Lofoten Climbs

Lofoten Climbs - pg. 354
This covers rock climbing on Lofoten and Stetind in Arctic Norway. A great publication from Rockfax with clear topography and good information. The patronising puffin that appears on certain pages with silly comments does somewhat detract from the professional quality of the book but I’m sure it appeals to some. Overall an essential guidebook for people looking to climb in this part of the world and great value for money.
Availible Here R.R.P. £ 34.99
ISBN: 9781873341230


Weather & Local Conditions

Seasonal Weather Information

Note that some weather stations are close or even on the mountain, others are in nearby towns. Plan accordingly!

Estimated Rainy Days Per Month

  • 15
  • 15
  • 17
  • 15
  • 17
  • 17
  • 16
  • 18
  • 19
  • 19
  • 15
  • 16

The graph shows the estimated average number of rainy days in the month that had more than 1mm rainfall or snow:


Estimated Temperature Per Month

  • -8-15
  • -8-14
  • -6-13
  • -2-9
  • 3-4
  • 6-1
  • 92
  • 81
  • 5-2
  • -1-6
  • -5-10
  • -7-13

Estimated average high and low temperature in degrees Celsius for the given month.


References & additional links

The following links will take you to external websites specifically related to this climb: Sydpillaren on Stetind.
Note: They contained relevant information at the time of publishing.

Climb Info: Stetind South Pillar Mini Guide 2003


There are currently over 40 published multi-pitch climbs on the site.

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