Grande Fermeda - Normal Route

Grande Fermeda via the original route is a very long climb but at an amenable grade. There is only one pitch (pitch 15) that is graded UIAA IV-. This means around 700 meters of grade II and grade III climbing. As such it’s common for parties to scramble while roped together, pitching only the harder sections. Techniques like simul climbing or scrambling allow parties to move much faster, reducing the risk of benightment, but increasing the type and impact of potential falls. Plan according to the parties strengths & weaknesses. The route was first climbed in 1887 by a party of climbers Bettega, Compton, Martin, Schulz. Parts of the climb are delicate, exposed and in places quite steep.

The Route Topography

This is the route Normal Route on Grande Fermeda in South Tyrol, Italy. It represents 720m of Dolomite rock climbing, usually over 19 pitches, of a max grade of VD 3b. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Normal Route climb topo.

Original Image: original: Svíčková

Approach & Descent Information

Approach: Approaches start in Val Gardena Many parties will go to the Fermeda Hütte or the nearby Rifugio Firenze in Cisles, which can be reached from the Col Raiser (chair-lift from St. Christina). From the huts follow the path to the Mittags-Scharte / Sass Rigais (marked) until you can reach the base of the Grosse/Gran Fermeda easily. From there it's a short walk to the beginning of the different routes.
An excellent approach for doing the climbs in one day is to take the Furnes - Seceda lift from St. Ulrich.

Descent A: The way down requires the climbers to revers the entire normal route, abseiling the harder sections. First climb down to the belay at the top of pitch 15, then make a short abseil past the 20m crux of the route. Keep descending to just below the short chimney of pitch 7, for here descend directly below the bolt to an anchor. Make a 25m abseil into the initial gully. Make a final 25m abseil down the gully then continue scrambling down the easier sections of the route to the base.

Descent B: The alternative way down does more abseiling and less scrambling. Start by reversing the route to the saddle below the summit (~2 pitches), this is where the normal route joins the Southeast Ridge route. From this abseil station you can make 9 abseils of 20 to 25m each. Less if you have a 60m rope and skip stations. These go down the Northe East side of Grande Fermeda towards Odla de Cidles. From here decend the gully rightwards to a large chockstone, and make a 30m abseil (or a 10m and 20m abseil if using a single rope) move right and make one final 40m abseil (again 15m and 25m if using single ropes). This brings climbers to the base.

See Grande Fermeda on the climb map Open climb location in Google Maps

References & additional links

The following links will take you to external websites specifically related to this climb: Normal Route on Grande Fermeda.
Note: They contained relevant information at the time of publishing.

Brilliant drawn topo

Mountain Hut - Rifugio Firenze in Cisles