Sass Pordoi - Fedele

A superb and impressive route, often seen as the best climbs of its grade (UIAA IV+) in the Dolomites. The climb weaves its way along the edges of the large black water steak that dominates the face. This water that comes heavy in wetter months, has shaped the rock in to lots of clean jugs making the accent surprisingly easy for the steep face. Make sure you wait for a dry period to tackle this climb or you will have to deal with seepage or potentially a full on waterfall, especially on the higher pitches across the black streak. For those up to the challenge the Dibona Upper Wall provides the logical continuation. Combining the routes gives almost a kilometre of climbing up one of the most impressive faces of the Dolomites whilst never exceeding grade IV+.

The Route Topography

This is the route Fedele on Sass Pordoi in Dolomites, Italy. It represents 555m of Dolomite rock climbing, usually over 16 pitches, of a max grade of HS 4a. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Fedele climb topo.

Original Image: Pixabay

Approach & Descent Information

Its possible to park at Ristorante Pian Schiavaneis (46.503278,11.802140). From there, head North and slightly East to Sass Pordoi. Start 50m left of the prominent black streak, directly below the huge boulder on the upper ledge. Climb easy scree and rocks to a scree basin where the climb starts.

See Sass Pordoi on the climb map Open climb location in Google Maps