Peñón de Ifach - Diedro UBSA

A true classic, Diedro U.B.S.A. is a sustained 250m grade V+ climb or roughly HVS 5a in British grades. As the name suggests the route climbs the corner (dihedral or Diedro in Spanish) all the way up to the big cave high in the cliff, before a short but awkward diagonal abseil to a ledge which is traversed back into another corner, all the way up to a dramatic move out of the higher notch, onto easier ground to the summit of Peñón de Ifach sometimes also spelled Penyal D’Ifac. The route has a bit of everything including overhangs with good holds, delicate slabs with edges, tiny and large pockets, an exposed traverse and of course lots of corner crack climbing with more than one chimney section. Although popular, polished and loose in places this is a classic and memorable climb. All stances are equipped with new bolts (often 4 or 5) and there are a number of bolts on most pitches. A small rack is needed to achieve a proper level of protection on all pitches. The route faces South with sun on it much of the day so don’t forget to bring water and sun cream.

The Route Topography

This is the route Diedro UBSA on Peñón de Ifach in Costa Blanca, Spain. It represents 250m of Limestone rock climbing, usually over 9 pitches, of a max grade of HVS 5a. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Diedro UBSA climb topo.

Original Image: Our own image

Approach & Descent Information

Approach:
Walk right to the end of the pedestrian path on the right side of Peñón de Ifach, passing the helipad marked in yellow. At the end, step over the wall and move right very briefly before the path cuts back left and moves under the cliff all the way to the start of the climb.

Descent:
Follow the circuitous tourist path marked with large red dots. The path is very polished and slippery, so wearing good approach footwear is recommended. The red dots and path are next to the final belay, these dots are followed all the way back through the cave to the tourist center and back into Calpe for a well deserved drink and probably some after sun.

See Peñón de Ifach on the climb map Open climb location in Google Maps

Pitch By Pitch Information

Pitch 1 – 15m Grade III
Climb up to a large ledge with a bolted anchor below and a little left of the first corner.
Pitch 2 – 40m GradeV+
A contender for the routes’ crux, the pitch starts with a delicate traverse across the sloping ledge, before reaching the corner. From here a long, steep and sustained climb is made to the next anchor on a ledge below the chimney.
Pitch 3 – 25m Grade V+
Some tricky moves are made off the belay up and rightwards to reach the corner, this is climbed to the next belay.
Pitch 4 – 25m Grade V+
Move up from the belay for another pitch of corner climbing.
Pitch 5 – 30m Grade V
Some delicate moves are made first going right from the belay a little, then back left into the chimney system. This is climbed to a cave with two bolts. From here ascend up onto the ledge above, moving left and up, around the block, to reach a belay on a wedged block with a broad slab behind.
Pitch 6 – 30m Grade V+
Another contender for the route's crux. The pitch requires some harder moves onto the wall above the anchor bolts. After this the route moves up this wall on smaller but positive holds trending right. The pitch has two options. Some (sport 6a) moves, ascend more directly and a slightly easier path (UIAA V) moves right into a corner (using a small pocket) before ascending to the ledge of the cave and walking back left. 2 bolts and 2 abseil rings are positioned on the bottom left hand side of the large cave.
Pitch 7 – 8m Abseil
Abseil ~8m diagonally down and left (when facing the anchor) with difficulty to reach some bolts. There are two sets. Don't move to the further set straight away because pulling the rope around the corner will be more difficult.
Pitch 8 – 40m Grade V
This pitch makes a delicate exposed traverse all the way into the corner before moving up the corner crack and then slightly left at the large foliage to reach a pair of bolts for a half hanging anchor (there is a good ledge for at least one foot).
Pitch 9 – 45m Grade V+
Another contender for the route's crux. The pitch traverses back right to the corner, moving up the ever steepening corner until the overhanging notch has to be tackled directly to form a dramatic finale and gain freedom from Diedro U.B.S.A.. From here a belay can be made on the bolts to the right or an additional ~30 meters of easy scrambling can be made to reach some bolts by the summit path.

References & additional links

The following links will take you to external websites specifically related to this climb: Diedro UBSA on Peñón de Ifach.
Note: They contained relevant information at the time of publishing.

Climb Info: Good Guide to Diedro U.B.S.A. in Spanish

Climb Info: Good Diedro U.B.S.A. Topo in Spanish

Climb Info: Good Guide in Spanish

Climb Info: A Blog Post in Spanish