Cwm Cneifion - Cneifion Arete

The Cneifion Arete is an imposing looking ridge sat high on mountainside of Cwm Cneifion, overlooking the lake of Lynn Idwal. Despite its looks, this route is actually at the intersection between scrambling and rock climbing, a sort of gateway into the world of multi-pitch mountaineering. With a few proper climbing moves to get off the ground, a long and easy climb / grade 3 scramble follows. The route takes the right side of the arete (edge) for around 120 meters to the top. From the ground it looks like challenging terrain, but once past the first 20 or so meters, the ridge itself offers big holds and a gentle angle with the ability to rest at more or less any point. That said the exposure is fantastic and the route offers enjoyable moves along the way. Protection is also plentiful and the route happily takes large slings and nuts throughout. The only downside is the routes popularity, which can leave climbing parties queuing and has led to significant polish in places.

The Route Topography

This is the route Cneifion Arete on Cwm Cneifion in Conwy, Wales. It represents 120m of Rhyolite rock climbing, usually over 4 pitches, of a max grade of Diff 3a. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Cneifion Arete climb topo.

Original Image: Our own image

Approach & Descent Information

Approach: Whilst the route can be approached directly as described here, it is common to link onto another multi-pitch climb. Either starting with the original route on the Sub Cneifion Rib or a route on the Idwal Slabs.

Direct Approach: There is free parking in the lay-bys next to Lynn Ogwen (Lake Ogwen). From these bays, walk to Ogwen cottage (which has limited paid parking available). From here, follow the path to the left side of visitor buildings and cafe. Take a right fork towards Lynn Idwal (Lake Idwal). After passing a gate in dry stone wall, the path folks into 3. The left path follows the wall and the right most follows the lake towards the Idwal Slabs. The middle path moves up towards the Sub Cneifion Rib. Either climb a route on the rib (the original is the easiest) and then take the path right at the top, or move around this crag on the right side to join a path right (south) at the top. The path will go to a point below the now clearly visible Cneifion Arete, with a short scramble up some scree needed to reach the base of the climb.

Sub Cneifion Rib: This is a logical link up, more or less on the way to the Cneifion Arete. It is described as a 125-meter, 3-star route, graded VDiff. Arguably the route is neither 125m nor worthy of 3 stars. Pitch one is solid climbing, probably at the upper end of what is quite a variable grade. Pitch two has little in the way of climbing. Pitch 3 is walking along a path. Thankfully the final pitch is enjoyable, well protected, VDiff climb up the Arete with a fun move around the corner to reach the arete. There is a photo topo of the Sub Cneifion Rib here. The Idwal Slabs therefore, offer a much more enjoyable, if more circuitous, set of climbs to get to the Cneifion arete.

Descent: From the top of the route, a path leading north offers wonderful views, with Glyder Fatch and Tryfan to the right (east) and Cwm Idwal and Y Garin to the left (west). Follow this path on flat at first before descending for a while to where there is a rough T junction. The left offers a path then scree slope back down to the approach path which can be reversed to reach Ogwen cottage. The right fork at the T junction offers an alternative path down to Lynn Bochlwyd (the lake on the right). At the north of this lake (its outflow) is a major path back to Ogwen cottage. In both scenarios the decent is longer than the approach.

See Cwm Cneifion on the climb map Open climb location in Google Maps

Pitch By Pitch Information

First climbed in 1905, the Cneifion Arete is sometimes described a grade 3 scramble and sometimes a Diff graded climb. Either way, it is popular, polished, pretty easy to protect and full of character and exposure.
Pitch 1 –20m Diff
Starting just right of the base, climb up a short steep wall on good but polished holds. A belay can be created on the small ledge or the next pitch can be done as well in a link up, this would lead to a bigger belay ledge.
Pitch 2 –10m Diff
Climb up a short gully, sometimes generously referred to as a chimney, to a larger belay ledge/area. Whilst the slab to the left of the gully is easier, the goal when climbing the Cneifion Arete should be to find harder moves and sections, not easier ones. It's possible to keep going after this short pitch to find a belay higher on the ridge. 
Pitch 3 & 4 (and maybe 5) –100m
Follow the ridge to the top, with multiple options for belay as needed. The right side offers more dramatic positions and exposure. The climbing is easy and long slings make the spikes easy to protect. There are some loose parts, but it's not usually a major concern.

References & additional links

The following links will take you to external websites specifically related to this climb: Cneifion Arete on Cwm Cneifion.
Note: They contained relevant information at the time of publishing.

Climb Info: UKC Page